If you follow this program you will have a happy, reliable pet in three days.
That’s right, THREE DAYS. I know you think that’s impossible or will take a miracle, but I promise you it’s true. And it’s easy, so easy you won’t believe it if you’ve tried other methods.

You may have been through this before with other dogs you have own the frustration, the damage to your home, maybe even getting rid of the new dog because “He wouldn’t learn. He was doing it to spite you.”

Housetraining, or housebreaking as it is also called, is easy but only if you do it the right way. The wrong way, yelling, screaming, hitting your dog, creates lasting bad feelings between the two of you and often fails, causingmany people to get rid of their new pet.

The right way is quick, easy, stress free and creates the proper, loving relationship between you and your new pet.

Be prepared for this job before you bring your new dog home. You should have a few specific tools for this job as well as a leather leash, leather collar, and proper food for the age of your dog, a food dish and a water bowl.

THE TOOLS

There are two essential tools for the housetraining process. One is any of a few products which contain enzymes to remove all traces of the inevitable mistakes that will occur and the second is a “crate” or “kennel” to house your dog when you can’t be there to properly monitor him.

This crate is the key to this method of housetraining. Now I hear many of you protesting, “I don’t want to lock my dog up in prison. Won’t he resent me if I lock him up? Isn’t it cruel? I want him to enjoy life.”

Let’s think about this for a moment. In the wild where do dogs or wolves live? Don’t they seek out small dark dens or caves to seek shelter in? And when they go into the largest of caves, don’t they seek out the cozy spots, where the ceiling or wall meets the floor? They don’t lie down to sleep in the middle, open area of the cave. They go for the tight, secure area. Your
pet is no different, in this aspect, than his wild ancestors.

He wants to feel secure and safe when he goes to sleep. The best way to do this is to provide him with a secure, cave-like area in your home.

SELECTING THE CRATE

Crates come in different sizes so you should select one based on the present size of your dog. If you have selected a large breed but right now he’s a puppy, don’t worry about selecting a crate for his full-grown size, you won’t need it when he’s all grown up.

Although many people keep their crates for the life of their dogs. Some dogs come to regard them as the private space and go their on their own if the door is left open.

You can buy a crate for the full grown dog and get spacers to make it smaller for the puppy size dog.

Enlist the help of your pet shop professionals when selecting the proper size, but, as a general rule, your crate should be just big enough so that your dog can turn around in it. Don’t worry that it’s too small, too cramped, it will look like it’s too confining. That’s based on our human experience that bigger is better, that we need our space. That’s correct WE need space. For the short periods of time that you dog will be in his crate, it will be just fine.

ENZYME PRODUCTS

There are many of these products on the market and they are all good. My best success has been with “Nature’s Miracle.”or’Piss Stop’ Check with your local pet store or vet.

These will be used according to the directions, whenever your pet makes a mistake. They are essential to the process. Without them, your dog will be attracted back to the spot where he made his mistake. No amount of scrubbing or cleaning will remove the odor. Only the enzyme products will break down the odor to its component parts so your dog will not be drawn back to the same spot. No cleanser, not even the strongest of bleaches, will completely remove the scent. Make sure that you saturate the area of the mistake completely. If the mistake was on the carpet and it’s liquid, the enzyme product must reach all of the mistake. Pour more on than you think is necessary so it will soak into the carpet padding. It won’t hurt anything if you use too much. After a few minutes you can soak up the excess with some paper towels.

THE PROBLEM

Just like a human infant, for the first part of his short life, your dog had no control of his functions. Then, when control started he learned that it was O.K. to go anywhere except in his bed. That is his world now. Anywhere is O.K. except his bed. As far as he knows it’s O.K. to go anywhere else, whenever the urge strikes. Your job is to train him that he has to go outside.

THE BASIC RULE

WHEN YOU CAN’T MONITOR YOUR PET’S BEHAVIOR, HE MUST BE IN THE CRATE. Easy, No? When he makes a mistake, and he will, you must see it. If you miss it, even by a couple of seconds, it’s too late. Don’t get angry at your pet, it’s
your failure not his. He didn’t do anything wrong. Remember, he thinks that “Anywhere is O.K. except in his bed.”

THE PROCESS

When you first bring him home, take him outside. Try to use the same door to take him outside all the time, preferably the one you want him to go to when he has to go outside. Start saying over and over again, “Busy, busy, busy.” In low soothing tones. As soon as he goes, get excited. Keep saying, “Busy, busy, busy.” And add “That’s a gooooood dog. What a gooooood dog you are. That’s a gooooood puppy.” Repeat these as long as he is urinating. When he’s finished, bend down and stroke him, still repeating, “Break, break, break.” and “That’s a gooooood dog.” Your tone of voice must be happy and upbeat. Act as if he has just given you the best present of your life.

Take him inside and put him into the crate. Also put an old towel into the crate. He’s used to lying against his mother or his brothers and sisters and this will help comfort him. Try not to leave him alone at this point. If you do he may start crying and whining. It’s easy to train this away but it’s the topic of another lesson.

Leave him in the crate except for when you can monitor him EVERY SECOND. He will need to go outside after every meal and every 3-4 hours. When you take him outside behave just as you did when you first brought him home. Coaxing him to urinate with, “Break, break, break.” And praising him heavily when he does. Let him explore a little and remember that your command, “Busy, busy, busy.” Is just starting to mean something to him. He’s not sure what it’s for, but with more conditioning he will. (the words you use are not important).

Keep him on some flooring that he can’t damage, such as tile or linoleum, because at some point when he’s outside the crate he will try to urinate on the floor. You must be there to see this. As soon as the first drops hit the floor pick up your dog  and loudly, “NO. BAD DOG. ” Pick him up and carry him outside. Put him down where he’s gone before and immediately start saying, “Busy, busy, busy.” Within a few moments he’ll start to urinate. When he does praise him lavishly just as you did the first time he urinated.

When he’s finished, take him back inside and again monitor him. If he tries to repeat, do the same thing as before. With a couple of repeats, of this he’ll catch on.

Remember, when you can’t monitor him, he must be crated.

Use the same technique when he tries to defecate. If you make a mistake and he is able to urinate or defecate away from your view, you will have set your training back several days, perhaps a week. If you try to discipline him after he’s walked away from his mistake you’ll only confuse him and teach him to be afraid of you. If he’s more than two or three seconds from the act, he has no conscious memory or it. He won’t know why he’s being hurt, only that you’re doing it.

He may try to duck out of your sight to urinate. Don’t let him succeed in this. Follow him. He doesn’t yet know that he supposed to go outside, only that he’s not supposed to go inside. He has to go and associates his unpleasant experience of being yelled at and shaken, with you, not with his inappropriate location to urinate. After a few more repetitions he will realize that it’s his act that draws the unpleasant response from you, not just your presence.

At some point in his training he’ll go to the door that you’ve been using and whine or scratch to get outside. When he does this praise him very heavily as you open the door to let him go out. Remember to start saying, “Busy, busy, busy.” As soon as he is clear of the door. As soon as he hits the grass he’ll probably urinate. When he does, go crazy with praise but don’t get him so excited that he stops urinating.

Congratulations. You’re almost there. It should only take a few more repetitions before he’s locked into the appropriate behavior. He may not generalize to areas of the house that he hasn’t been allowed to go into, such as upstairs or on carpeting, so watch him carefully there.

Remember, if you make a mistake it will add several days to your training time because he’ll be confused and have to unlearn a behaviour before he can learn the proper habit.

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